Belize Independence

Inevitable, dreaded, longed-for, mistrusted…it was a celebration best characterized as ambivalent.

Government made elaborate plans and, with only minor problems, all went off as scheduled. The Opposition, in utter disarray and virtually leaderless since defeat at the last elections, nattered and moaned. A small group of activists calling themselves Belize Action Movement (BAM), who were responsible for whipping up most of the violence connected with the spring riots, brought in guns and ammunition, but were arrested, disarmed, shaken up, and turned loose by police, who proceeded to watch and harass them. All remained publicly peaceful.

The traditional Tenth of September was celebrated by both Government and Opposition with modest parades and ceremonies, made poignant by the feeling that they would be the last to celebrate the Baymen.

Official pre-Independence celebrations began two days later and continued nightly for the ten days to Independence Day, September 21st, 1981.

 

A modest cultural exhibit with Mayan artifacts, local paintings, exhibits of indigenous butterflies, herbs, and handcrafts, etc., was sent to each of the Districts, ending in Belize City, where the Jade Head recovered from the ruins of Altun-Ha was added to it, complete with a sleepy policeman dedicated to guarding it from would-be thieves.

There were sporting events, dances, concerts, a military tattoo by the Belize Defense Force (BDF), beauty contests, body-building contest—a host of “entertainments,” three or four each night. Interestingly, although they allegedly were given for the people, admission fees were set as high as five dollars for some events.

 

Housing for dignitaries was a critical problem, haunting the government until the last moment. Ten “Independence Houses” were rushed to completion on pumped-up land outside Belize City and other houses, intended ultimately for civil servants, were built in Belmopan to house chiefs of state. The Independence Houses were finished…barely. Just before delegations began arriving, a strip of sod was laid edging the muddy road in front of the houses and five-foot high coconut palms were planted along it to give a touching impression of landscaping. We heard that, before the first guest arrived, the refrigerators were stolen from four houses, but do not know that it was true. However, large groups of BDF troops were seen guarding the area from the next day onward.

One of the key items needed for the celebrations was a red carpet…for use by arriving delegations and for The Royals at Government House. There was one in Belize City…and Holy Redeemer Cathedral found itself bare for the holiday weekend.

 

Dignitaries began arriving on Friday, September 18th. The key ones, of course, were Prince Michael of Kent and Princess Michael, the Queen’s cousin, to represent her for the handing over. They stayed in Government House, and Mrs. Hennessey, the Governor’s Lady had been in Belize City for almost a month overseeing the refurbishing for their visit. The poor old house had been allowed to deteriorate badly, but certainly looked dignified from the outside, with fresh paint and newly tended grounds.

Allegedly we had over two hundred guests from 75 countries. One of the best stories of the arrivals involved the Nicaraguans. This was reported by a businessman who happened to be at the airport as their plane was about to land. Minister of Energy and Communications, Louis Sylvestre, was on duty receiving guests when our Communist minister, Assad Shoman, drove up, accompanied by Juan Duran, another Communist, with a truckload of followers. They swarmed over the airport apron with placards bearing leftist welcome to the incoming Sandinistas. Sylvestre went to Shoman and ordered him to put the signs and men back in the trucks and get them out. “Everyone gets the same welcome here.” He further said that if the men weren’t in the truck instantly, he would confiscate the vehicle and let them walk back up-country to the District they came from. Shoman, Duran, and mob left.

 

In his ecstasy at finally having achieved the Independence he had spent twenty-five years fighting for, Premier George Price sent invitations to every country that had voted for him in the United Nations…which was everyone but Guatemala. He failed to specify the number of delegates who could be accommodated.

Most countries, of course, sent one or two or three, especially the more distant countries, such as Yugoslavia, Denmark, etc. Mexico carefully sent only five, knowing how difficult it would be to get rooms, and made early reservations at the Fort George Hotel. There was no question of Mexico’s President coming. In the first place, he had to be in Grand Rapids at the same time for the opening of the Gerald Ford Museum, but also, he travels with so many security men that there was no way he could have been accommodated here.

The U.S. sent about ten, led by Under-Secretary of State Thomas Ender. Panama sent two plane-loads…one with officials and one cultural (dancers, singers, musicians). Mexico also sent a cultural group. Cuba sent a planeload of officials and a Folklorico group and band. The Nicaraguans sent a planeload. Maurice Bishop, the leftist Granada leader came…Fidel Castro did not. Edward Seaga, the new moderate leader of Jamaica came; Mr. Price had invited former Prime Minister Michael Manley privately, but he did not accept.

 

On Saturday, September 19th, the dignitaries were to visit the Cultural exhibit at the Bliss Institute and then go to the Festival Grand Market, an annual exhibit of local crafts and industry. It was held at a school on Cemetery Road and accounted for the strange note I had read in Alex’s list of activities (he was on the Logistics Committee) that the delegates would be viewing cattle at a school.

Callie Young and I went to the fair late in the morning and found it a complete shambles. The Public Works Department had dumped several loads of red clay in the grounds, obviously to fill holes, and then it had rained. It was a sea of mud. They did have both cattle and horses, however…well-constructed thatched pens on either side of the grounds, with some very handsome animals that I wanted to linger over as Callie pushed past them as rapidly as possible.

There was a typical local band, some minor food and drink stalls, and a group of Garifuna Jankunu dancers, who were interesting. But for some strange reason the exhibits had been spaced one to a building, with no signs to tell you where to go.

Ford Young exhibited the Belizean agate jewelery that he and Callie have done very well with; there were some handcrafts; and the Prison System had a nice exhibit of carvings, cookies, jams, and needlework done by prisoners. And that was about it. We waded in…looked about…and waded back out.

That evening the BDF had a barbecue at their headquarters adjacent to the Police Training School, but although the weather was better, it still must have been muddy for the guests and disappointing for the hosts.

Sunday Government had an ethnic luncheon for dignitaries, held at the gym at St. John’s College in Belize City. They had Belize Creole and Garifuna food and the waitresses were dressed in native costumes (which isn’t easy in Belize). Reportedly The Royals insisted on rice-and-beans, chicken, and dukunu (corn, grated, mixed with this and that, wrapped in a leaf, and steamed.) I understand the luncheon really was very well done and most effective.

 

The main activity, of course, was the evening of Sunday, September 20th, at Government House. I was not invited…had not expected to be, given the crowd of dignitaries and people with a real claim to invitations. However, some of my friends went and the following description is taken from their accounts.

Belize City was at its dressiest. For days, decorations had been going up…colored pennants, patriotic banners hung across streets, colored lights festooning buildings and draped across Albert Street so that you drove through a multi-colored tunnel of lights. The banks had added extensive colored floodlighting.

Flags everywhere. The new flags could not be delivered on time by the U.S. company from which they had been ordered, so substitutes were whipped up by a local company on blue of any shade available, an interesting confusion for the new flag. Government had made duty-free paint available in an attempt to get people to redecorate and several main businesses had redone their facades.

Albert Street was blocked at the southern end to all but Government-House traffic, then divided into vehicles delivering guests and those parking. The gates were manned by British troops and left just ajar so that guests could show their invitations and then be allowed to enter. As guests walked up the driveway along the side of Government House toward the sea, they walked between sailors from H.M.S. Ariadne, the frigate here for the occasion. The sailors were stationed opposite each other at about five yards distance. As guests came abreast of them, both sailors would snap to attention so that guests were saluted repeatedly on their progress toward the Premier—soon to be Prime Minister—George Price, who stood at the corner of the drive, greeting guests.

An area at the foot of the flag pole had been cordoned off and the party took place on the entire lawn between Government House and the sea. It was well after the guests had gathered that The Royals appeared. Prince Michael, dour, with a full beard, and (some said) resembling his grandfather King George V, wore dark red, tight-fitting trousers, long white uniform jacket with decorations, and the flat military cap. Princess Michael reportedly was beautiful, her blond hair pulled back in a large chignon surrounded by a braid. She wore a grayish blue ball gown, off-the-shoulder, coming to a V neckline, huge puffed sleeves, elbow-length, and enormous skirt. She had a diamond tiara, elaborate diamond necklace, and diamond drop earrings with huge sapphires.

Fireworks began at eleven. Public Works Department had been working with Alex for three weeks about supplying barges and getting them into position as platforms for the display. The first burst was a multi-colored shower, more elaborate than any ever seen in Belize. And then the heavens opened up. It was a sudden heavy squall that sent guests fleeing into Government House or under the front steps and veranda overhang and kept them sheltering for forty minutes. They tried later to continue the fireworks, but apparently everything had been ruined. It was a great and expensive disappointment

The skies cleared just in time for the flag ceremonies. There were prayers and speeches…the flood lights were turned off and only one left, lighting the flagpole as the Union Jack was lowered to the playing of God Save The Queen by the Gordon Highlanders…and the new Belizean flag was raised to the Belizean National Anthem, Land of the Gods.

Dress for the occasion was long dresses for the ladies, their most elegant, and lounge suits for the men. Naturally many of the women wore short dresses…the Prime Minister and some of his cabinet wore guayaberas…and some of the Cubans showed up in blue jeans and sweat shirts.

Friends had worried about our dear, elderly friend Lady Wolffsohn during the rain. A search discovered her surrounded by British soldiers who had provided her with a chair and were enjoying a brisk conversation.

Lady Wolffsohn remarked to the Governor’s Private Secretary…or one of the civilian British top people…that it had been “rash” to lower the lights since anything could have happened in the darkness. He replied, “Madame, we are prepared for every emergency.” He also remarked that it had been Mr Price’s decision to lower the lights, in deference to people’s sensitivities at an emotion-filled moment.

 

Final documents regarding the handing over were signed in Belmopan on Monday, Independence Day, and the new Governor-General was sworn in. There had been endless speculation about who would be appointed. The announcement finally was made just a few days ahead of time…Dr. Minita Gordon, a stalwart of Price’s party, who not long ago got her doctorate in education. The one person I know who has met her says she is lovely.

Following the ceremonies there was a seated luncheon for about 300 in the Civic Center at Belmopan. There were several speakers at the luncheon. One of them was Edward Seaga of Jamaica, and he received a standing ovation.

 

Meanwhile, back in Belize City, both Albert and Regent Streets allegedly had been blocked off from midnight on and throughout the day, though obviously the Government-House guests were allowed to leave. Food and drink stalls were set up the length of both streets; bands played in locations just separated enough so that one never was out of range of music; and it was a day-long street festival. Actually, friends say that the streets were full at two in the morning following the flag-raising.

With friends I drove into town at mid-day, and it was a sea of people from the bridge-foot down both Regent and Albert. Somehow our driver made his way across the bridge and down Water Lane. We drove along the canal and looked down each cross street to see the crowds on Albert. Our impression was that the people we passed going toward the festival were well-dressed, quiet, and happy. It was loud and drunken later, but I have not heard of any incidents. It simply was one massive blast.

 

Post-Independence…no change that I can see in the way things are going or in the attitude of people on the street. Mr. Price hot-footed it off to New York early in the week, applying for entrance into the United Nations.

With Independence we get a British High Commissioner, who will be living in Belize House in Belmopan. He is a Mr. Trew, and apparently is very highly thought of. No one knows what will happen to Government House in Belize City.